HOW TO CARE FOR AND CLEAN HARDWOOD FURNITURE

With a little tender loving care, your beautiful hardwood furniture can last a lifetime and beyond. Care entails understanding the nature of wood as well as knowing how to prolong the life of the finish film that protects the wood,’ says Charles Sutton -- president of Sutton House Furniture, a designer and consultant for fine furniture manufacturers.

Sutton says changes in relative humidity are wood’s No. 1 enemy. As weather changes, so does the relative humidity in your home and the moisture content of the wood in your furniture, adds Susan Regan of the Hardwood Information Center. This change in wood’s moisture content means that your furniture is in a constant state of expansion and contraction. Sutton suggests trying to keep your home’s temperature to 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Relative humidity should be 50 percent to 55 percent. Specific levels, however, are not as important as avoiding radical swings in the temperature and the amount of moisture in the air.

Other tips from Sutton on dealing with expansion and contraction include:

1. If furniture is to be stored, it generally does better in an unheated environment because the relative humidity will fluctuate within a much narrower range. Air can hold more moisture at a high temperature than at a low one.

2. Wood can best handle temperature changes and relative humidity if they occur gradually. Abrupt changes (closing or opening a vacation home, for example) can stress your furniture.

3. When air conditioning your home, keep the intake of outside humid air to a minimum.

4. Add humidifiers or vaporizing units to a heating/air conditioning central system to help stabilize the humidity level.

5. Use dehumidifiers during wet, rainy times and in damp rooms to remove excess moisture from the air. Suttton’s tips for caring for your furniture’s finish include:

--Dust regularly with a clean, cotton cloth slightly dampened.

--Do not use a feather duster.

--Clean only when needed. Use water and liquid cleansers with caution.

--Do not place hot, cold or wet objects directly onto the finish.

--Make sure all items displayed on your furniture have felt, not plastic, pads under them.

--Limit exposure to sunlight with the use of shades, drapes, blinds, shrubs or window tinting.

--Avoid placing furniture near air ducts or vents.

The Hardwood Information Center is a service of the Hardwood Manufacturers Association, an industry trade group. Sutton has written a 30-page booklet, How to care for your old & new wood furniture. Your mother was right: Dust frequently. Dust is abrasive so infrequent or improper dusting can create a worn, dull surface over the years. Dust can accumulate in carving, cracks and grooves and make wood look dark and unattractive. This dusty buildup eventually becomes hard to remove.

To dust properly, use a clean, washable cloth made of soft, lint-free cotton. The best choices include an old T-shirt, diaper, cheese cloth, dish towel, piece of flannel or chamois. The cloth should have no snaps, buttons, zippers or thick seams that could scratch furniture surfaces. Do not use a cloth that has hanging threads or unraveling edges. These could catch on wood slivers, molding, knobs or other loose pieces.

Do not use a feather duster because it will simply move dust around, flinging it into the air. Feather dusters can’t be washed, and a quill could scratch the wood surface if a feather breaks off. Dry dusting versus damp dusting Many experts believe that dusting with a dry cloth is abrasive and will ultimately dull the finish. A dry cloth will not really remove dust, they say.

These experts typically recommend sprinkling a few drops of water onto the dusting cloth. The trick is to moisten the cloth just enough to make dust adhere to it. The cloth should not be so damp that it wets the wood. If you can see any trace of water on the wood after you wipe, your cloth is too damp. Some conservators recommend using distilled water for heirlooms or antiques.

You might want to use a spray-on dusting aid or polish. If so, consider whether you want to apply silicone oil to your finishes. This type of oil is used in most commercial furniture sprays and polishes. To find out if your product contains silicone oil, consult the label or call the manufacturer.

Wipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the grain of the wood. Turn or fold the cloth as soon as dirt is visible on any section. Keep a pile of clean cloths handy so you don’t move dust and dirt from one spot to another. Lift, don’t slide, lamps and objects to dust under and around them. Avoid soiling adjoining upholstery. Launder soiled dusting cloths immediately.

Carefully choose wood care products It’s no wonder there’s a lot of confusion about what wood-care products to use. Store shelves are stacked with countless brands of wax, polish, spray and oil. Remember that if the finish is in good shape, that’s what you’re actually cleaning, not the wood. Proper care can prolong the life of a finish, making the surface of furniture slippery so that objects slide along it without scratching. For new furniture, read manufacturers’ tags and literature. Consider consulting a conservator for tips on caring for especially valuable antiques and heirlooms.

One common myth is that wood furniture is alive. That’s not the case. It does not breathe, so don’t worry about clogging up pores with wax. It does not need to be nourished or fed with oily polishes. Changes in relative humidity, not a lack of oil, cause wood to crack. One option is paste wax, which has been used for centuries as a finishing material and a furniture care product. If used properly, paste wax will provide a thick, hard, lasting finish. Liquid wax is similar, but typically provides a thinner coating. Waxes dry hard so they do not smear and attract dust and dirt. Paste wax typically lasts six months to a couple years, depending on how much the furniture is used and how many coats are applied. Paste wax will help delay the formation of water rings, giving you a little extra time to wipe up the moisture.

Some people, especially antique lovers, prefer the soft sheen provided by waxes. Wax will not interfere with future refinishing. Make sure you buy a wax designed especially for wood furniture. Waxes for cars, shoes or other finishes might harm furniture. Oily cleaners and polishes will not provide a lasting, hard coat. Those containing silicone oil will create a nice shine and a slippery surface, but they can interfere with refinishing. This type of oil can seep through cracks in the finish into the wood. That can ruin the new finish later. Be aware that labels often fail to say whether products contain silicone oil.

Call the manufacturer and follow the manufacturers’ instructions when using spray or liquid polishes. If you have waxed your furniture and want to switch to an oil-based polish or vice-versa, first clean the furniture with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Do this in a spot with plenty of ventilation away from any heat source or sparks. First test the product you are using in an inconspicuous spot. When the piece is clean and dry, wax or polish. If you accidentally mix wax and oil, the finish will turn cloudy. In that case, wipe the finish off and clean it with mineral spirits or a solvent-based wax remover. Wax or polish when the finish is dry.

About The Author:

Colline Darts is a successful author and regular contributor to http://www.1st-in-home-decor.com. Home decorating tips and ideas to showcase any room with style.

	Hardwood Furniture
HOW TO CARE FOR AND CLEAN HARDWOOD FURNITURE